"Extra Virgin" .  .  . What's It Mean? 

Everyone knows that when it comes to olive oil, "extra virgin", means the very best.  But what—exactly—does "extra virgin" mean? 

Outside of the U.S., a lot.  Within the U.S., unfortunately, the term "extra virgin" means nothing—along with all the other labels you have heard associated with olive oil.  They have no legal definitions.  And that's why every bottle of that emerald-colored liquid you see at your grocery store is labled "extra virgin", "100% Product of Italy", "cold pressed", "first press," yada, yada, yada.

Let's start with virgin olive oil.  Virgin olive oil is oil obtained from the fruit of the olive tree without the use of heat or chemicals.  The olives are pressed or crushed by mechanical means at room temperature—the fabled 'cold pressing".  A trained tasting panel, however, has found some odor or taste defects.  And the oil's acidity level, a measure of how ripe the olives were when pressed, is above 0.50 percent (in California).

Extra virgin olive oil is also produced by cold pressing, and only the oil from the first pressing is used.  But, in addition, a trained tasting panel has found no odor or taste defects in the oil.  The acidity level is below 0.50 percent.  Worldwide, it's estimated that less than 10 percent of all olive oil is really, trully extra virgin olive oil.  Less than 10 percent.  It's a rare treat.

All Things Olive sells only California olive oil.  We do so because there is a third party that certifies whether or not California oil is really extra virgin.  To guarantee consumer confidence in California extra virgin olive oil, the California Olive Oil Council (COOC) introduced its certification program in 1998.  To earn the COOC's seal of approval, an oil must meet the true standards for extra virgin.  Each year, the COOC certifies the extra virgin olive oils produced in the state.  And each of the individual bottles of extra virgin olive oil we sell carries the COOC seal.

How's It Made? 

To make their special olive oil, producers will generally pick the olives by hand so as not to bruise the skin or pulp.  The olives are then transported to a nearby olive mill because the olives must be crushed and pressed within 24 hours of being picked.  Any longer, and the olives—as with any fruit—will start to ripen or ferment, which will degrade the quality of the oil. 

At the mill, any leaves or twigs are removed, the olives are rinsed in fresh, cold water, and then pressed at room temperature—the first cold pressing.  Using heat or chemicals will produce more oil, but at the expense of the oil's flavor and nutrients.

Extra virgin olive oil is not filtered, which is typically done by forcing the oil through cheesecloth or similar material.  Filtering extends the shelf life by removing any bits of fruit that remain, which will ferment and shorten the life of the oil.  But it also diminishes the flavor in doing so.

Instead, after pressing, extra virgin olive oil is allowed to settle or 'rest' in air-tight stainless steel tanks for a couple of months.  This allows some of the fruit particles and remaining water to settle on the bottom of the tanks.  The oil is then drawn off the top of the tanks throughout the year as needed to ensure a fresh supply of oil for bottling.  A few producers bottle a small portion of their new oil directly from the mill.  This "olio nuovo"--new oil--is available only in late in November and early December. 

Given this labor and time-intensive process, olive oil is rarely produced in this manner today.  Estimates are that less than 10 percent of all the olive oil in the world is authentic extra virgin olive oil.  But that 10 percent—WOW—what a remarkable taste sensation!

The Taste of Extra Virgin Olive Oil 

Once you sample a real extra virgin olive oil, you'll discover that it can have a range of flavors--delicate and buttery, fragent and fruity, olive'y' and peppery, and leafy green and grassy.  What determines these flavors?  Two factors—the type of olive, and the time of the year that the olive is pressed. 

The olive oil sold by All Things Olive comes from California olive trees.  The olive tree has been growing in California since the late 1700s, when the Franciscan monks began planting them along their mission trail from San Diego to Sonoma.  The olives were the varieties known to their native Spain:  manzinillo, ascolano, and sevillano, along with misson, which is native to California.  In the late 1980s, at the beginning of the resurgence of California's olive oil industry, olive varieties native to Italy were planted.  Pendalino, lecchino, and frantoio are common Italian varieties grown in California today. 

Each olive, just like an apple, grape, or any other fruit, offers a distinct flavor.  Olive oil producers can make their oil from single variety of olive, or they can blend a variety of olives to create a distinctive flavor.

The time of the year that an olive is picked and pressed will also affect the flavor of the oil.  Olives are picked each year in California beginning in late October and continuing through to late January.  The olive typically starts green, and as it ripens, it changes color, until it is very black and ripe.  When pressed, green olives produce a more robust oil than black olives. 

Because it does not have a strong olive flavor, a mild and delicate olive oil is often used as a substitute for butter.  You get all the healthful attributes of olive oil, without a strong olive flavor.  This makes a mild and delicate oil ideal for use on toast or bagels, scrambling eggs, or on fresh peas.

The next notch up in the flavor category is the "fragrant and fruity" olive oil.  This oil is most often pressed from Spanish olives that are almost, but not quite, fully ripe.  This category is a good choice to serve with salads. 

The next category, "olive-y and peppery" olive oil is generally produced from Italian olives, which are greener.  This type, often referred to as a Tuscan-style, is great on a crusty piece of bread or with pasta. 

The last category is the leafy green and grassy oil.  This oil comes from olives, Spanish or Italian, that are pressed early in the year.  That gives them their characteristicly strong olive flavor and peppery finish.