"Extra Virgin"  .   .   .  What's It Mean? 

Everyone knows that when it comes to olive oil, "extra virgin" means the very best.  But what—exactly—does "extra virgin" mean? 

Outside of the U.S., a lot.  Within the U.S., unfortunately the term "extra virgin"—along with all the other labels you've ever heard associated with olive oil—have no legal definition.   "100% Product of Italy".  "Cold Pressed".  "First Press".   Yada, yada, yada.  They all are marketing terms, with no meaning in America. 

That's why every bottle of olive oil at the grocery store is certain to have these terms on their label.

Well, what should "extra virgin" mean?

Let's start with virgin olive oil.  Just like extra virgin olive oil, virgin olive oil is oil obtained from olives without the use of heat or chemicals.  This means that the olives are pressed, or technically crushed today, by mechanical means at room temperature.  "Cold pressed" is the term that tries to describe this process. 

But virgin olive oil has some taste or odor defects.  Extra virgin olive oil, as determined by an independent, trained tasting panel, has none.  In addition, it's acidity level, which is a rough measure of how ripe the olives were when they were pressed, is below a certain percentage.  In California, it is 0.50 percent.  In Europe, the percentage is higher, 0.80.

These standards seem pretty strict.  How much olive oil in the world is really extra virgin?

These requirements, especially having a trained third party doing a taste test, are indeed strict.  As a result, it's estimated that worldwide, less than 10 percent of all olive oil is really, trully extra virgin olive oil.

All Things Olive sells only California olive oil.  We stick with California because the California Olive Oil Council (COOC)—an independent third party—has perfomed the taste tasting and chemical analysis and certified that the oils we sell are really extra virgin.

How's Real Extra Virgin Olive Oil Made? 

To make their special olive oil, producers will generally pick the olives by hand so as not to bruise the skin or pulp.  The olives are then transported to a nearby olive mill because the olives must be crushed and pressed within 24 hours of being picked.  Any longer, and the olives—as with any fruit—will begin to ferment, which will degrade the quality of the oil. 

At the mill, any leaves or twigs are removed, the olives are rinsed in fresh, cold water, and then pressed at room temperature—the fabled "first cold pressing".  Using heat or chemicals will produce more oil, but at the expense of the oil's flavor and nutrients.

Extra virgin olive oil is not filtered, which is typically done by forcing the oil through cheesecloth or similar material.  Filtering extends the shelf life by removing any bits of fruit that remain, which will ferment and shorten the life of the oil.  But it also diminishes the flavor in doing so.

Instead, after pressing, extra virgin olive oil is allowed to settle or 'rest' in air-tight stainless steel tanks for a couple of months.  This allows some of the fruit particles and remaining water to settle on the bottom of the tanks.  The oil is then drawn off the top of the tanks as needed throughout the year to ensure a fresh supply of oil for bottling.  A few producers bottle a small portion of their new oil directly from the mill.  This "olio nuovo"--new oil--is available only in late in November and early December. 

Given this labor and time-intensive process, olive oil is rarely produced in this manner today.  Estimates are that less than 10 percent of all the olive oil in the world is authentic extra virgin olive oil.  But that 10 percent—WOW—what a remarkable taste sensation!

The Taste of Extra Virgin Olive Oil 

Once you sample a real extra virgin olive oil, you'll discover that it can have a range of flavors—delicate and buttery, fragent and fruity, olive'y' and peppery, all the way up to leafy green and grassy.  What determines these flavors?  Two factors—the type of olive, and the time of the year that it's pressed. 

The olives used to make the oil sold by All Things Olive comes from trees in California.  The olive tree has been growing in California since the late 1700s, when the Franciscan monks began planting them along their mission trail from San Diego to Sonoma.  The olives were the varieties known to their native Spain:  manzinillo, ascolano, and sevillano, along with misson, which is native to California and Mexico.  In the late 1980s, at the beginning of the resurgence of California's olive oil industry, olive varieties native to Italy were planted.  Pendalino, lecchino, and frantoio are common Italian varieties grown in California today. 

Because it does not have a strong olive flavor, a mild and delicate olive oil is often used as a substitute for butter.  You get all the healthful attributes of olive oil, without a strong olive flavor.  This makes a mild and delicate oil ideal for use on toast or bagels, scrambling eggs, or on fresh peas.

The next notch up in the flavor category is the "fragrant and fruity" olive oil.  This oil is most often pressed from Spanish olives that are almost, but not quite, fully ripe.  This category is a good choice to serve with salads. 

The next category, "olive-y and peppery" olive oil is generally produced from Italian olives, which are greener.  This type, often referred to as a Tuscan-style, is great on a crusty piece of bread or with pasta. 

The last category is the leafy green and grassy oil.  This oil comes from olives, Spanish or Italian, that are pressed early in the year.  That gives them their characteristicly strong olive flavor and peppery finish.